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The creation of our watches involves a range of artisanal skills, each as important as the next.
Any neglect becomes evident in the final product. Many of the techniques we use are self-taught and uniquely developed in-house.
We also design and manufacture our own tools, ensuring every detail contributes to a near-perfect result.
An achievement we’re immensely proud of.
Let yourself be enchanted by the world of watchmaking
With the help of high-speed manual motors and small watchmaker lathes, we meticulously finish an array of our tiniest components. Countersinks for bushings and chatons, rounded parts, and even the undersides of our screws. While these machines offer assistance, the process still demands control and manual dexterity. A single lapse in concentration, even for a moment, can lead to a failed part, highlighting the precision and focus required at every step.
POLISHING WITH HAND OPERATED MOTORS AND WOOD
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All of our gears, along with certain other components, are adorned with circular graining on their top surfaces. To achieve this, we use a vintage precision drill combined with specially designed, in-house tools to hold each part securely. Applying this intricate surface finish requires extreme care, particularly when lifting the part off the abrasive paper. Even the slightest error can result in micro-scratches, compromising the otherwise flawless finish.
CIRCULAR GRAINING
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Our movement features six different sized gears, each with individually chamfered teeth.
A rare finish in the world of watchmaking. We quickly discovered why this level of detail is so uncommon, as perfecting the process required immense time and dedication. Through countless trials, we developed our own method to achieve the beautiful results we envisioned. Chamfering gear teeth demands not only a deep understanding of tool geometry, but also perseverance and a keen sense of “Fingerspitzengefühl.” Though it’s an incredibly time-consuming task, the reward is undeniable. The light dancing off the polished chamfers when winding the watch makes every effort worthwhile.
CHAMFERING OF THE GEAR TEETH
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Each watch we build undergoes the so-called double assembly. A time-intensive but essential step that ensures every component is cleaned and freshly oiled before delivery. Before the first assembly begins, all internal parts including gears, levers and the complete balance cock are carefully finished. These parts are then assembled and fine-tuned to achieve the perfect endshake and ensure smooth contact between components.
The escapement is also set in this stage. By the end of the first assembly, the watch is already ticking, though the bridges remain unfinished. Given the extensive handling and adjustments required during this stage, there’s a risk of scratches on the surface. To prevent this, we only begin finishing the bridges after completing the first assembly. During the second assembly, every component is cleaned and reassembled with utmost care. At this point, there’s no room for error, as any imperfection would be visible in the final product. The double assembly guarantees that each watch meets our quality standard.
ASSEMBLING WATCHES
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Every chamfer on our parts are crafted by hand, using traditional techniques that show our dedication to our craft. First, the chamfer is shaped with a file, followed by the delicate removal of file marks using abrasive paper with grains as fine as 5 microns. Once pre-polished, the chamfers are brought to a mirror-like finish with gentian wood and polishing paste, achieving that beautiful high gloss. One of the most demanding elements in our movement is the creation of 19 sharp inner angles. This painstaking process requires an extraordinary level of skill and patience, serving as a true testament to our craftsmanship and passion for detail.
CHAMFERING
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To ensure the longevity of each component, all pivots are meticulously hardened and burnished, a process that makes the surface both denser and smoother. When combined with a minuscule amount of oil applied to our sapphire bearings, this significantly reduces friction, enhancing durabilty. Each pivot is burnished individually using a hand-operated tool. Constant checking with the micrometer caliper is required, to ensure the perfect dimension right down to a couple of microns. Burnishing for too long would result in a pivot that’s too small, leading to excessive play in its bearing stone, which can negatively affect its function. From the mainspring arbor to the escape wheel and balance wheel pivots, all undergo this careful process, ensuring optimal quality.
BURNISHING OF THE PIVOTS
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As with our design, all movement construction is, and will continue to be, done in-house. This approach gives us complete freedom, allowing us to develop each watch with our unique vision. Johannes leads the development of new movements, consistently introducing fresh and innovative ideas. A perfect example is the power reserve indication located on the side, a design breakthrough that showcases our commitment to pushing boundaries. Though the knowledge is entirely self-taught and filled with challenges, it brings immense pride. Every hurdle overcome reaffirms our dedication to developing these watches ourselves, ensuring each one carries our unmistakable DNA.
MOVEMENT CONSTRUCTION
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With every new project, the design of our watches is, and will always remain, a personal endeavor. Johannes, together with his twin sister, who joined Kallinich Claeys in 2024, collaborate to create fresh and inspiring designs. Their creative synergy brings depth and emotion to the designs, blending traditional Glashütte craftsmanship with a modern and fresh perspective. A challenge they embrace with passion. When necessary, we work together with professional watch designers to refine the final details. However, even in these collaborations, we ensure that our signature style remains intact, preserving the essence of what makes each Kallinich Claeys timepiece truly unique.
DESIGN
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